Galician shellfish: sustenance in poverty and a delicacy in affluence

Abstract

The consumption of shellfish is currently perceived as a marker of class and elite status. At the same time, the Spanish region of Galicia has been acknowledged as paradigmatic of the “best shellfish” in the country. The intersection of these two premises provides the starting point for this article. We argue that an anthropological perspective can contribute to the scientific assessment of the shifts in dietary practices caused by the convergence of these two processes. Data obtained from comprehensive fieldwork and a review of documents spanning a whole century allow us to examine two key issues: 1) how attempts to emulate the habits of the rich can reveal shortcomings among the poor and 2) how the cultural classification of food items fluctuates over time